The trick to eating at Sassafras is to first find the town it’s in. Yamba is an island town, separated from the New South Wales mainland by a causeway that seems to only reveals itself every couple of years or so, and then just long enough to let in another group of potential residents. It’s a bit like Brigadoon.

Once you’re there, the chances are you’ll never want to leave, so it’s as well there’s plenty of good places to eat. And Sassafras is the best of the best.

It serves pasta and pizza in a lively, family friendly atmosphere seven days a week. In the summer – or just on warmer days – the restaurant opens up its shutters so that the impression is you are sitting in an Italian piazza. If it’s cold, there are tall heaters to keep you comfortable.

Pizzas come in three sizes and start at $10AU through to $21. Pastas start at $16 and while they are the standard varieties the quality and presentation is exceptional. Likewise with the salads which are served in bowls large enough to toss them in, plus you are given a pair of tongs with which to do it.

The staff are fantastic. In fact, everything about this restaurant is well thought out and beautifully executed from the décor to the placement of the tables. You will never feel crowded at Sassafras. You will, however, need to reserve a table.

Make the trip, it’s worth every kilometer travelled, but don’t blame me if you can’t find the causeway – just try again in a year or so.

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